If are using the new style 6 pin harness then you need to pay a little more attention to detail. The 6 pin harness isn’t color coded and there starts the confusion. Most people place the connectors next to each other and start from one side replacing one wire at a time, don’t do this. The wires for the old 4 pin run 1 through 4 starting on the left. The new 6 pin starts from the right 1 through 6. The wires at each end #1 and #6 are for the IAC. Wires 2 through 4 are used for the MAF. Take a look at Figures 2 and 3 to get an understanding of how they are positioned.
The simplest way I can think of to show the proper install is using a table. Follow this table and you shouldn’t have any problems.
Old Style 4 Pin |
New Style 6 Pin |
Circuit Function |
|
1 or E |
IAT Signal Return |
1 or A - 361 Red |
2 or A |
Vehicle Power (start/run) |
2 or B - 969 Black/White |
3 or B |
Ground |
3 or C - 968 Tan/Light Blue |
4 or C |
MAF Signal Return |
4 or D - 967 Light Blue/Red |
5 or D |
MAF Signal, Input to EEC |
|
6 or F |
IAT Input |
Solder all your wires and place heat shrink over them to keep the moisture out.
If you want to utilize the integral IAT sensor you can simply cut the connector off the current one on your vehicle, extend the wires and follow the table for the 6 pin for the factory wire placement. The sensor works off of resistance so you it doesn’t matter if you get these two wires switched around, it will still work.
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